Showing posts with label serger. Show all posts
Showing posts with label serger. Show all posts

Thursday, 3 December 2015

Easy 2 hour dress New Look 6750 stretch fabric casual dresses and stash busting

I oiled my overlock machine, dove into my fabric stash and made three dresses from my remnants. All are view B from New Look 6750.

Dress 2 and 3 have twin needle stitched hems. Dress 3 is my favourite to wear, the others are very figure hugging on me and I am just not used to it.

Dress no. 1 - View B, cotton blend fabric with little stretch,
made as per pattern instructions

Dress no.2 - View B
a drapey knit by John Kaldor fabrics.

Dress no.3 - View B, a cotton knit.
This time I removed the shaping
at the waist by ruling straight from the underarm to the hip.
It is cool dress for hot days.


Two colour twin needle stitching on dress 3.

This is a classic easy to wear dress. The BurdaStyle range of dressmaking books are another source of classic patterns and are available with free postage from the Book Depository.

Tuesday, 9 September 2014

Asymmetrical stretch knit top McCalls 6400

This asymmetrical stretch knit top was partially sewn when I bought it along with the pattern. It's previous owner must have gotten really really frustrated with the slinky stretchy fabric and gave it away.

I overlocked the side seams and twin needled the sleeves, neckline and hem.

It fits, feels comfortable, looks weird and keeps sliding over to reveal bra straps.

It is very easy and quick to sew.


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Monday, 1 September 2014

Spring swimsuit practice

My first ever swimsuit top.

Modifications to the original pattern included: grading from s to m from the waist down, taking in the bust area another 2cm and sewing in bra cups salvaged from an old bra.


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Sunday, 8 June 2014

Vogue 8793 - a creative long sleeved top

Vogue 8793

This pattern requires three different fabrics or prints. I used fabrics from my stash and did not have quite enough of one of the contrasts to cut the required collar pieces so introduced a fourth fabric for the collar. At that stage I was not very impressed with my selections so omitted the zipper trim on the collar.

The only fit adjustment was to shorten the sleeves by about an inch and half. I machine basted the body of the top together and tried it on for fit, which is when I found the sleeves too long. I then serged over the basting to complete the top.

The collar piece was quite thick due to all the layers and while it worked, it may be preferable to construct the top and collar with light weight knits throughout.

The hem was serged, then stuck down with hem tape. I used a size 90 4mm twin needle to stitch the hem.

Sunday, 1 June 2014

T-shirts from Burda Start III 3197

I have made three t-shirts from the Burda 3197 pattern. Each one has a slight style variation, and each one fits slightly differently due to the differences in stretch of each fabric.
These t-shirts also mark my first attempts at twin needle stitching which did not go well until the last shirt. I have an old Janome 5700 and to get the twin needle to stitch with minimal skipping took a lot of trial and error.
 
The three settings that worked for me were - 
  • putting paper strips under the fabric and stitching through it
  • adjusting the needle position two steps to the left of centre
  • having a shorter stitch length of 2.8 instead of my usual 3 or 3.5
 
With those three settings in place I almost eliminated the skipped stitches that occurred previously.
Each t-shirt had to have the shoulders adjusted inwards by about 1cm. I did not use the facing provided in the original pattern. Instead applying a cowl type rectangle to the black top, folding over and stitching the neck of the purple top and applying a narrow band to the green top.
The seams are over-locked/serged. The sleeves of the green top were machine embroidered using large flower motifs.
 
I completely missed the indelible knit line when sewing the green top and it has not come out in the wash. So today I embroidered a line of stitching over it.
 
 
 

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Friday, 30 May 2014

New Look 6735

It is my intention to make each item (however unlike the illustrations on the pattern envelope - mine are unlikely to coordinate!)
 
1. Three quarter sleeve top
  • Interlock print
  • Serged seams
  • Twin needle hems
 
2. Panelled skirt
  • Serged seams and zigzag elastic casing
  • Twin needle hem (size 90 4mm)
3. Cardigan jacket
  • Serged seams
  • Twin needle hem
  • Stretch buttonhole
 

 
 



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Monday, 19 May 2014

Burda Start III 3197 variation

 
Another variation of the Burda Start 3197 pattern. This time with a warm skivvy type neck. The fabric has thin stripes of silver sparkle thread - hence the "dots" in the photo.

I used my overlocker to do all the seams and neck and the sewing machine and twin needle for the wrists and hem.

This fabric "suited" the twin needle and I had no need to put paper under the hemline. Adjusting the needle position two steps to the left, and having a stitch length of 2.6, tension 3.5 was enough to get perfect twin needle stitches all the way around.

Tuesday, 4 September 2012

Pink Cutie

This top is made from a remnant of man made fibre - some polyester nylon something or other, it has self stripes, a slight stretch and is tough to sew. Despite feeling delicate, pins and needles have difficulty penetrating it - I used sticky tape to position the sewing line for the darts and when cutting out the pattern pieces.

The seams are over locked and the hem and sleeve edges roll hemmed with navy woolly polyester thread on the over locker.




Navy blue rolled hem on sleeve

Wednesday, 29 August 2012

T-shirt style nightie with embroidery

A useful, quick project means a happy sewer.

The nightie has an embroidered pocket, button placket and mock flatlocked hem and sleeves. The fabric is a polyester cotton rib knit remnant - feels very soft. I used iron-on interfacing to stabilise the shoulder seams and in places around the neck and armhole edges. The pocket is machine embroidered with a cross stitch flower.

A dusty pink nightie for spring

Detail of button placket and pocket. I have previously
used soft velcro thinking it would be easier for nursing staff, but have found
they don't generally close the velcro or buttons

Mock flatlocked hem

The pattern came from this pattern pack.
I have made several nighties from this pattern-
see older blog posts

Monday, 27 August 2012

Polo style top

Body length shortened for Misses' sizes as per pattern directions,
self-fabric used for the collar

Zip closure


Actual garment looks better than the technical drawing


 
Notes:
  • Fabric a polycotton rib knit remnant
  • Self-fabric collar
  • If wearing it as a close-fitting version the zip is more for looks only unless you like the high neck look
  • I made this in XS size for my Mum who has shrunk to a size 8 or less, but it also fits Mary in a more body hugging way and Mary is a size 10-12.

Monday, 20 August 2012

Lettuce edging top

I made this several weeks ago and have been wearing it fairly regularly - so Mary hasn't had a chance to model it until now. It is from a Spotlight brand pattern and is a raglan sleeve top. I have modified it by making lettuce edges on the sleeves and hems with the overlocker.

Notes:
  • This pattern is quite close fitting under the arms and the neckline is quite wide. The sleeves also seem quite long, although if made as per the pattern they will form that puff at the sleeve hem. I shortened them by about 4cm.
  • I used two layers of light weight interfacing on the neckband and it was quite stiff initially but after a couple of washed it has relaxed and kept its shape.

Embroidered pocket nightie

Another nightie but this time with a monogram and floral stem on the pocket. I used a 100% cotton knit with a light print of sea horses, fish and shells.

The basic pattern

Short sleeves, velcro placket, a pocket and no neck binding
 (the edge was turned over and stitched)

Close-up of placket and pocket

Pocket detail - machine embroidered
Notes:
Reduce needle tension on the embroidery (there was some bobbin thread showing)

Wednesday, 25 April 2012

See and Sew 3630 stretch knit skirt

This week I wanted and needed to overlock. The skirt from See & Sew 3630 (copyright 2002) was my overlock project. I refered to my manual and a book on serging.

A pattern from 2002 but with plenty of potential to wear now.

I used the instructions from Creative Serging Illustrated
 to construct the skirt rather than the pattern instructions.

A very useful book with clear line drawings and practical information.

Mary in the completed skirt - a grey ribbed knit remnant.

Close up of lettuce edging on the hemline - went around it twice.

Notes:
  • Be very accurate with elastic measurements because once it is serged to the skirt who wants to unpick it if it is the wrong size.

Monday, 16 April 2012

Flatlocked spots - another KwikSew 2867

I flatlocked the edges of this KwikSew 2867 top to give it a bit more umph - the beige/milk coffee colour was a bit boring even with the maroon spots. It has a velcro placket to make it easy to get on/off for my Mum whose limbs are very stiff.

The button was purely to give it some colour as I couldn't overlock over the thickness of fabric at the placket.

Thursday, 15 March 2012

Modified square neck top

Knitwit Pattern 1500: Square neck raglan top and culottes sizes 6 to 22

I'd previously made the top for me in a blue floral knit. This time round I thought I'd give matching stripes a try - like on the pattern envelope photo.  Managed to match the stripes across part of the top and one side!

I added a placket and folded it back. The sleeve and bodice hems were overlocked.


Friday, 24 February 2012

Nightie Night

A quickly overlocked nightie (and even flatlocked hems) to replace the one gone missing. No buttons this time just three squares of soft velcro.

Pattern: an old by the fortnight series called 'Make It Easy' pattern 9 Marshall Cavendish 1984