Asymmetrical stretch knit top McCalls 6400

This asymmetrical stretch knit top was partially sewn when I bought it along with the pattern. It's previous owner must have gotten really really frustrated with the slinky stretchy fabric and gave it away.

I overlocked the side seams and twin needled the sleeves, neckline and hem.

It fits, feels comfortable, looks weird and keeps sliding over to reveal bra straps.

It is very easy and quick to sew.

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Spring swimsuit practice

My first ever swimsuit top.

Modifications to the original pattern included: grading from s to m from the waist down, taking in the bust area another 2cm and sewing in bra cups salvaged from an old bra.

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Pants for Mary made from a T-Shirt

Underwear cut from a cotton elastane t-shirt.

The shirt was not large enough to cut the pieces on the fold, nor were the side seams straight enough to use as the fold.  So I added a seam allowance and serged two front halves and two back halves together.

The side seams and crotch were serged and the stretch lace was attached using an ordinary zigzag stitch.

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Mary gets pants

This week I've been sewing underwear from a Bevknits pattern 7007.

Notes

Stretch is the key factor - the size that fits with a really stretchy fabric will be tight or too small with a minimum stretch fabric.

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Vogue 8793 - a creative long sleeved top

Vogue 8793

This pattern requires three different fabrics or prints. I used fabrics from my stash and did not have quite enough of one of the contrasts to cut the required collar pieces so introduced a fourth fabric for the collar. At that stage I was not very impressed with my selections so omitted the zipper trim on the collar.

The only fit adjustment was to shorten the sleeves by about an inch and half. I machine basted the body of the top together and tried it on for fit, which is when I found the sleeves too long. I then serged over the basting to complete the top.

The collar piece was quite thick due to all the layers and while it worked, it may be preferable to construct the top and collar with light weight knits throughout.

The hem was serged, then stuck down with hem tape. I used a size 90 4mm twin needle to stitch the hem.

T-shirts from Burda Start III 3197

I have made three t-shirts from the Burda 3197 pattern. Each one has a slight style variation, and each one fits slightly differently due to the differences in stretch of each fabric.

These t-shirts also mark my first attempts at twin needle stitching which did not go well until the last shirt. I have an old Janome 5700 and to get the twin needle to stitch with minimal skipping took a lot of trial and error.

 

The three settings that worked for me were - 

• putting paper strips under the fabric and stitching through it
• adjusting the needle position two steps to the left of centre
• having a shorter stitch length of 2.8 instead of my usual 3 or 3.5

 

With those three settings in place I almost eliminated the skipped stitches that occurred previously.

Each t-shirt had to have the shoulders adjusted inwards by about 1cm. I did not use the facing provided in the original pattern. Instead applying a cowl type rectangle to the black top, folding over and stitching the neck of the purple top and applying a narrow band to the green top.

The seams are over-locked/serged. The sleeves of the green top were machine embroidered using large flower motifs.

 

I completely missed the indelible knit line when sewing the green top and it has not come out in the wash. So today I embroidered a line of stitching over it.

 

 

 

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New Look 6735

It is my intention to make each item (however unlike the illustrations on the pattern envelope - mine are unlikely to coordinate!)

 

1. Three quarter sleeve top

• Interlock print
• Serged seams
• Twin needle hems

 

2. Panelled skirt

• Serged seams and zigzag elastic casing
• Twin needle hem (size 90 4mm)

3. Cardigan jacket

• Serged seams
• Twin needle hem
• Stretch buttonhole

 



 

 



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T-shirt style nightie with embroidery

A useful, quick project means a happy sewer.

The nightie has an embroidered pocket, button placket and mock flatlocked hem and sleeves. The fabric is a polyester cotton rib knit remnant - feels very soft. I used iron-on interfacing to stabilise the shoulder seams and in places around the neck and armhole edges. The pocket is machine embroidered with a cross stitch flower.

A dusty pink nightie for spring

Detail of button placket and pocket. I have previously
used soft velcro thinking it would be easier for nursing staff, but have found
they don't generally close the velcro or buttons

Mock flatlocked hem

The pattern came from this pattern pack.
I have made several nighties from this pattern-
see older blog posts

Polo style top

Body length shortened for Misses' sizes as per pattern directions,
self-fabric used for the collar

Zip closure

Actual garment looks better than the technical drawing


 

Notes:

• Fabric a polycotton rib knit remnant
• Self-fabric collar
• If wearing it as a close-fitting version the zip is more for looks only unless you like the high neck look
• I made this in XS size for my Mum who has shrunk to a size 8 or less, but it also fits Mary in a more body hugging way and Mary is a size 10-12.

Lettuce edging top

I made this several weeks ago and have been wearing it fairly regularly - so Mary hasn't had a chance to model it until now. It is from a Spotlight brand pattern and is a raglan sleeve top. I have modified it by making lettuce edges on the sleeves and hems with the overlocker.

Notes:

• This pattern is quite close fitting under the arms and the neckline is quite wide. The sleeves also seem quite long, although if made as per the pattern they will form that puff at the sleeve hem. I shortened them by about 4cm.
• I used two layers of light weight interfacing on the neckband and it was quite stiff initially but after a couple of washed it has relaxed and kept its shape.

Embroidered pocket nightie

Another nightie but this time with a monogram and floral stem on the pocket. I used a 100% cotton knit with a light print of sea horses, fish and shells.

The basic pattern

Short sleeves, velcro placket, a pocket and no neck binding
 (the edge was turned over and stitched)

Close-up of placket and pocket

Pocket detail - machine embroidered

Notes:
Reduce needle tension on the embroidery (there was some bobbin thread showing)

One-Yard Knit Blouse by Butterick 3799

A simple T-Shirt made from cotton or cotton blend ribbed knit remnant.

This secondhand pattern was missing the instruction sheet
 and only had the pattern pieces for view B (the one I made).

Notes:

• The V-neck is quite wide and low, perhaps the medium was a bit big for me.
• Wooly nylon overlock thread melts when ironed on cotton setting.

Shawl Collar Jacket

I made version A.

Fabric: medium weight double knit remnant with a floral pattern

I constructed this jacket as per the instructions except for shortening the sleeves and stitching a 2cm seam line over the top of the shoulders and tapering it to the 1.5cm seam about 5cm either side. This made the shoulders fit better since I did not use shoulder pads.

Strangely the fabric pattern does not look stripey in real life.

See and Sew 3630 stretch knit skirt

This week I wanted and needed to overlock. The skirt from See & Sew 3630 (copyright 2002) was my overlock project. I refered to my manual and a book on serging.

A pattern from 2002 but with plenty of potential to wear now.

I used the instructions from Creative Serging Illustrated
 to construct the skirt rather than the pattern instructions.

A very useful book with clear line drawings and practical information.

Mary in the completed skirt - a grey ribbed knit remnant.

Close up of lettuce edging on the hemline - went around it twice.

Notes:

• Be very accurate with elastic measurements because once it is serged to the skirt who wants to unpick it if it is the wrong size.

Flatlocked spots - another KwikSew 2867

I flatlocked the edges of this KwikSew 2867 top to give it a bit more umph - the beige/milk coffee colour was a bit boring even with the maroon spots. It has a velcro placket to make it easy to get on/off for my Mum whose limbs are very stiff.

The button was purely to give it some colour as I couldn't overlock over the thickness of fabric at the placket.

My First Vogue

Vogue Patterns 2283 American Designer Donna Karan New York
Sewing Rating: EASY
Copyright 1989

I was brave this week and made my first Vogue. I used a polyester interlock (I think - it was an unlabelled remnant). The pattern went together easily once I got my head around the pleats - took me several attempts to interpret the instructions correctly. The rest was easy.

Mary wears it well. I will be dismantling the skirt soon. The fabric was good for a muslin but does not have enough body to actually wear in public and a solid dark colour would be much better.

Notes:

• I'm glad I tested this pattern before committing expensive fabric to it
• Fabric choice is crucial
• Easy pattern to adjust sizing - only one place the back seam!
• This is a wrap skirt with the wrap over the centre front
• The back of the skirt is plain - hence the preference for a dark fabric with some body
• Very quick to make once you get the pleats folded right
• Pockets are useful

Vogue 2283 Bodysuit & Skirt - I made the skirt

The roughly completed skirt - this one is definitely a muslin/trial and will not be worn

Stripes for Me

I have been trying to break my old habit of keeping every small bit of material. There was enough left from the tank top to make a pair of undies.

Kwik Sew tank pattern

Velcro placket for ease of wear

Modified square neck top

Knitwit Pattern 1500: Square neck raglan top and culottes sizes 6 to 22

I'd previously made the top for me in a blue floral knit. This time round I thought I'd give matching stripes a try - like on the pattern envelope photo.  Managed to match the stripes across part of the top and one side!

I added a placket and folded it back. The sleeve and bodice hems were overlocked.

A new style for me

Completed