Thursday, 11 October 2012

Quilt fabric dress - Newlook 6024

The pattern - NewLook 6024 from
downloaded and stuck together

The fabric - quilt fabric from my stash
I downloaded NewLook 6024 from and recently printed it out. The dress interested me because of the neckline pleats.

The fabric is a quilting cotton - should be very comfortable on a humid summer day and being a quilting cotton it is not as see through as other 'fashion' fabrics.

I'm making view A but with the sleeves from view C. The fabric has been easy to sew and the pattern has come together well. However the back neck gaped excessively - and Mary the manequin was essential. I made two deep pleats, one on either side of the back zip and top stitched them, so no more gape.

I'm wearing the completed dress
 and my father is modelling the completed vest from the previous post

Monday, 8 October 2012

Waistcoat Mutation

The silver zebra Burda 7799 waistcoat is stalled.

However a waistcoat had to be made and the result is a mutation between Burda 7799 and Lincraft 1063.

I used the body of Lincraft 1063 and the collar and welt pockets of Burda 7799. The two front pieces are a lightweight woven fabric with iron on interfacing to give more body, the back and lining is Dancetime satin - the back is the matt side.

So a marvellous slinky feel and a completed waistcoat. Smiles all round.
Welt pocket outlined on waistcoat front

Completed waistcoat

Close-up of buttons and welt pockets

Shawl collar and satin interior

Wednesday, 3 October 2012

Burda 7799 waistcoat

Recently I crossed my fingers and toes and started on a new waistcoat for my Father. The Burda 7799 pattern is for an unlined vest/waistcoat with three variations. I am making the one with the notched collar and two welt pockets.

Fabric: paper taffeta with a silver zebra skin print for the front, paper taffeta in plain silver for the back and welts
Interfacing: lightweight non-woven iron on
Lining: grey/silver dance time satin (I think)

Progress notes
There were more than a few questions to answer before the pattern was cut.
  • Which way does a zebra skin run?
  • What is the most body flattering direction for the zebra print to run?
  • Which is the right side and which is the wrong side of each fabric?
  • Should I underline it?
  • Should I use the iron-on interfacing on the front vest to support the fabric and stop it fraying?
  • Why oh why did I use this easy fraying, easy snagging fabric?
Zebra fabric and metal shank button

Friday, 14 September 2012

Vintage patterns

No dates on any of these. The pattern pieces have perforations and notches - no printed lines. All the paper has age discolouration/spotting.

Wednesday, 12 September 2012

Silk New Look 6732

I have made another flutter sleeve top from New Look 6732 (the same pattern from the Pink Cutie last blog post). This time I used a fine thin silk fabric remnant. It wrinkles easily but irons and holds a crease well.

  •  I thought the pink cutie version from the last post was a fraction too roomy so I re cut the pattern a size smaller - it seems quite a roomy cut - now sewing the size 8 and I don't generally buy this in ready to wear.
  • I hand basted the sleeve hems before sewing
  • To set the sleeves in I pinned then basted before sewing then overlocking the seams
  • The side seams, centre back and hems were all overlocked after sewing.

Tuesday, 4 September 2012

Pink Cutie

This top is made from a remnant of man made fibre - some polyester nylon something or other, it has self stripes, a slight stretch and is tough to sew. Despite feeling delicate, pins and needles have difficulty penetrating it - I used sticky tape to position the sewing line for the darts and when cutting out the pattern pieces.

The seams are over locked and the hem and sleeve edges roll hemmed with navy woolly polyester thread on the over locker.

Navy blue rolled hem on sleeve

Wednesday, 29 August 2012

T-shirt style nightie with embroidery

A useful, quick project means a happy sewer.

The nightie has an embroidered pocket, button placket and mock flatlocked hem and sleeves. The fabric is a polyester cotton rib knit remnant - feels very soft. I used iron-on interfacing to stabilise the shoulder seams and in places around the neck and armhole edges. The pocket is machine embroidered with a cross stitch flower.

A dusty pink nightie for spring

Detail of button placket and pocket. I have previously
used soft velcro thinking it would be easier for nursing staff, but have found
they don't generally close the velcro or buttons

Mock flatlocked hem

The pattern came from this pattern pack.
I have made several nighties from this pattern-
see older blog posts

Monday, 27 August 2012

Polo style top

Body length shortened for Misses' sizes as per pattern directions,
self-fabric used for the collar

Zip closure

Actual garment looks better than the technical drawing

  • Fabric a polycotton rib knit remnant
  • Self-fabric collar
  • If wearing it as a close-fitting version the zip is more for looks only unless you like the high neck look
  • I made this in XS size for my Mum who has shrunk to a size 8 or less, but it also fits Mary in a more body hugging way and Mary is a size 10-12.

Monday, 20 August 2012

Lettuce edging top

I made this several weeks ago and have been wearing it fairly regularly - so Mary hasn't had a chance to model it until now. It is from a Spotlight brand pattern and is a raglan sleeve top. I have modified it by making lettuce edges on the sleeves and hems with the overlocker.

  • This pattern is quite close fitting under the arms and the neckline is quite wide. The sleeves also seem quite long, although if made as per the pattern they will form that puff at the sleeve hem. I shortened them by about 4cm.
  • I used two layers of light weight interfacing on the neckband and it was quite stiff initially but after a couple of washed it has relaxed and kept its shape.

Embroidered pocket nightie

Another nightie but this time with a monogram and floral stem on the pocket. I used a 100% cotton knit with a light print of sea horses, fish and shells.

The basic pattern

Short sleeves, velcro placket, a pocket and no neck binding
 (the edge was turned over and stitched)

Close-up of placket and pocket

Pocket detail - machine embroidered
Reduce needle tension on the embroidery (there was some bobbin thread showing)

Monday, 13 August 2012

Machine Embroidery

I'm so happy with my recently acquired Janome Memory Craft 5700. It works well and the hoop my father made fits the machine and the designs from the embroidery cards I bought from Ebay turn out just like they should.

Thursday, 9 August 2012

One-Yard Knit Blouse by Butterick 3799

A simple T-Shirt made from cotton or cotton blend ribbed knit remnant.

This secondhand pattern was missing the instruction sheet
 and only had the pattern pieces for view B (the one I made).

  • The V-neck is quite wide and low, perhaps the medium was a bit big for me.
  • Wooly nylon overlock thread melts when ironed on cotton setting.

Wednesday, 1 August 2012

Blouse with cap sleeves

While I problem solved how to make the next waist coat for my Father, I 'relaxed' by sewing a blouse.

Pattern: Simplicity 9024 Extra-Sure Pattern from 1979
Size: 12
Fabric: printed cotton remnant

Style: Shirt with front button closing with collar, pocket and cap sleeves.

Time taken: less than 5 hours (about 2 evenings)

  • I used slightly smaller buttons from my button jar
  • The iron-on interfacing I used was very lightweight and I used two layers of it (probably unnecessarily but it seemed a good idea at the time)
  • I tapered the seam line from the waist to widen the shirt slightly at the hemline for a smoother fit over jeans.
  • Instead of pinking the edges, I overlocked them.
Printed cotton fabric remnant by Caprice

Extra-Sure - yes, it is hard to make a mistake with this pattern

Mary wears the blouse well.

Monday, 23 July 2012

Vests and Waistcoats for Men

Three classic vest/waistcoat patterns - I will be making Burda 7799.

A unisex pattern - loose fitting vest with trim variations
My father would like a vest, actually a waistcoat with lapels. So for a long time now we have both kept an eye out for suitable remnants and a pattern. The 'perfect' remnant has remained unfound but I have bought two patterns that would fit him - the Lincraft unisex vest and the Burda men's waistcoat.  The other two patterns are too small for him.

I've made the Lincraft view B as my trial garment using black sunsilky lining and a grey pinstripe fabric. Light as a feather to wear but too short said my father.

The completed vest.

Another vest, using the same pattern is now completed, with the front and back pieces lengthened by 6cm each.
Stretch cotton backing, lining - something slinky

Completed vest owned and modelled by my Father
 - notice the pattern lines up on each side.

Saturday, 23 June 2012

Shawl Collar Jacket

I made version A.

Fabric: medium weight double knit remnant with a floral pattern

I constructed this jacket as per the instructions except for shortening the sleeves and stitching a 2cm seam line over the top of the shoulders and tapering it to the 1.5cm seam about 5cm either side. This made the shoulders fit better since I did not use shoulder pads.

Strangely the fabric pattern does not look stripey in real life.

Wednesday, 30 May 2012

Chanel inspired jacket or dreams

Where do ideas come from? I'd like to make a Chanel cardigan jacket. Why? Why not?

This jacket took a long time to make. I first pinned then hand-basted the lining to the outer fabric at about 5cm intervals. Then I machine quilted the back, front and sleeve sections in a grid pattern. After assembling the jacket I overlocked the armholes, side seams and hem. To finish the neck and hem I made self fabric bias strips and hand sewed them over the seam edges to neaten it up.

My sewing machine and I somehow still managed to contort the fabric so the checks are not square across the back, however I doubt anyone much will be staring at me long enough to notice. A sewing machine with a walking foot/differential feed would make the quilting process easier.

It looks a bit old fashioned I think but is very comfortable to wear. The shoulders and upper arms are wide. I took the shoulders in about 2.5cm. If I find a suitable fabric I will make another jacket (different pattern) using the quilt the lining to the outer fabric method.